No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the World's 14 Highest

Made the only conscionable decision to go up and help As we were getting ready we watched as Alex haltingly worked his way down the slope above eventually stumbling toward camp We went up a short distance to assist him then helped him get into one of the tents where we plied and plied him with liuids since he was severely dehydrated Meanwhile surprisingly he didnt show any concern for ChantalGoing to the summit both he and Chantal had pushed themselves over the edge driven themselves to their very limits It happens all the time on the highest mountains but its kind of ridiculous To make matters worse on August the snow conditions were atrocious Same with the weather zero visibility Scott and I tried to go made it up the slope for a couple of hours then had to turn around and head back to camp We made plans for another attempt the following dayWe were in radio communication with Thor Hed started to bring Chantal down to Camp III but he only got partway They had to camp right in the middle of a steep slope almost a bivouac though Thor had been smart enough to bring a tent with himThe next day AugustScott and I got up packed our gear and started up again hoping we could meet up with Thor and Chantal and help them back to our camp At some point we could see them through the mist and clouds two little dots above It was blowing hard and little spindrift avalanches were coming down the slope we were climbing Part of it was stuff Thor and Chantal were kicking off from way above stuff that by the time it got to us was a little bigger But no really big slides Id scrounged a fiftyfoot length of rope with which Scott and I were tied together because of the crevasses that riddled the slopeAt one point Scott was above me Something just didnt feel right I yelled up to Scott Wait a minute this is not a good slope It was loaded ready to avalanche If youve done enough climbing you can feel the load on a slope I attribute that sense to the years of guiding Id done by that point in my life At that time Scott hadnt done as much guiding as I hadWe stopped in our tracks I said Man lets not get ourselves killed doing this Lets discuss this Scott sat down facing out looking down at me I figured if a big spindrift slide comes down now were going to get washed off the faceI started digging a hole with my ice ax thinking I might protect myself if a slide came from above After a few moments I looked up just in time to see Scott engulfed by a wave of powder He disappeared from sight At once I tucked into my hole and anchored myself lying on top of my ax the pick dug into the slope Bracing myself for impact I thought Here it comes It got dark it got uiet I felt snow wash over my back The lights literally went out I hung on and hung on And then the avalanche seemed to subside I thought Id saved myself I thought Wow my little trick workedBut the fact was Scott had been blindsided He was tumbling with the snow getting swept down the face He hurtled past me out of control Scott was a big guy maybe pounds I weigh The rope came tight Boom There was no way I could hold both of us I got yanked out of my hole like getting yanked out of bed I knew instantly what had happened Scott was plummeting down the mountain with me in tow connected by what should have been our lifeline And there werevertical feet of cliff below usIf youre caught in an avalanche and careening down the slope there are several ways of trying to save yourself One of the ways is called a selfarrest The idea is to get your ice ax underneath your body lie on it with all your weight hold on to the head and try to dig the pick into the slope like a brakeId learned the self arrest when Id started climbing and as a guide Id taught it to countless clients So the instinct was automatic It ran through my head even as I was getting jerked and pummeled around by the avalanche Number one Never let go of your ax Number two Arrest Arrest Arrest I kept jabbing with the pick of the ax but the snow beneath me was so dry the pick just kept slicing through Id reach and dig reach and digYet I wasnt frantic Everything seemed to be happening in slow motion and it was as if sound had been turned off We probably fell a couple of self arrest hundred feet For whatever reason Scott couldnt even begin to perform his own self arrestThen as I was still desperately attempting to get a purchase in the snow with my ice ax suddenly I stopped A few seconds later just as I expected the rope came tight again with a tremendous jolt But my pick held With my self arrest Id stopped both of usScott are you okay I yelled downHis answer was almost comical My nuts are killing me he screamed The leg loops of his waist harness had had the unfortunate effect when my arrest slammed him to a sudden stop of jamming his testicles halfway up to his stomach If that was the first thing Scott had to complain about I knew that hed escapedserious harmYet our roped together plunge in the avalanche had been a really close call If it hadnt been for the fact that two other mountaineers were in desperate straits theres no way Scott or I would ever have tried to climb in those co.

shortcuts book top: book climbing epub world's download highest ebok peaks kindle No Shortcuts ebok to the download to the Top: Climbing pdf Shortcuts to the mobile Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing book No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the World's 14 Highest Peaks EpubMade the only conscionable decision to go up and help As we were getting ready we watched as Alex haltingly worked his way down the slope above eventually stumbling toward camp We went up a short distance to assist him then helped him get into one of the tents where we plied and plied him with liuids since he was severely dehydrated Meanwhile surprisingly he didnt show any concern for ChantalGoing to the summit both he and Chantal had pushed themselves over the edge driven themselves to their very limits It happens all the time on the highest mountains but its kind of ridiculous To make matters worse on August the snow conditions were atrocious Same with the weather zero visibility Scott and I tried to go made it up the slope for a couple of hours then had to turn around and head back to camp We made plans for another attempt the following dayWe were in radio communication with Thor Hed started to bring Chantal down to Camp III but he only got partway They had to camp right in the middle of a steep slope almost a bivouac though Thor had been smart enough to bring a tent with himThe next day AugustScott and I got up packed our gear and started up again hoping we could meet up with Thor and Chantal and help them back to our camp At some point we could see them through the mist and clouds two little dots above It was blowing hard and little spindrift avalanches were coming down the slope we were climbing Part of it was stuff Thor and Chantal were kicking off from way above stuff that by the time it got to us was a little bigger But no really big slides Id scrounged a fiftyfoot length of rope with which Scott and I were tied together because of the crevasses that riddled the slopeAt one point Scott was above me Something just didnt feel right I yelled up to Scott Wait a minute this is not a good slope It was loaded ready to avalanche If youve done enough climbing you can feel the load on a slope I attribute that sense to the years of guiding Id done by that point in my life At that time Scott hadnt done as much guiding as I hadWe stopped in our tracks I said Man lets not get ourselves killed doing this Lets discuss this Scott sat down facing out looking down at me I figured if a big spindrift slide comes down now were going to get washed off the faceI started digging a hole with my ice ax thinking I might protect myself if a slide came from above After a few moments I looked up just in time to see Scott engulfed by a wave of powder He disappeared from sight At once I tucked into my hole and anchored myself lying on top of my ax the pick dug into the slope Bracing myself for impact I thought Here it comes It got dark it got uiet I felt snow wash over my back The lights literally went out I hung on and hung on And then the avalanche seemed to subside I thought Id saved myself I thought Wow my little trick workedBut the fact was Scott had been blindsided He was tumbling with the snow getting swept down the face He hurtled past me out of control Scott was a big guy maybe pounds I weigh The rope came tight Boom There was no way I could hold both of us I got yanked out of my hole like getting yanked out of bed I knew instantly what had happened Scott was plummeting down the mountain with me in tow connected by what should have been our lifeline And there werevertical feet of cliff below usIf youre caught in an avalanche and careening down the slope there are several ways of trying to save yourself One of the ways is called a selfarrest The idea is to get your ice ax underneath your body lie on it with all your weight hold on to the head and try to dig the pick into the slope like a brakeId learned the self arrest when Id started climbing and as a guide Id taught it to countless clients So the instinct was automatic It ran through my head even as I was getting jerked and pummeled around by the avalanche Number one Never let go of your ax Number two Arrest Arrest Arrest I kept jabbing with the pick of the ax but the snow beneath me was so dry the pick just kept slicing through Id reach and dig reach and digYet I wasnt frantic Everything seemed to be happening in slow motion and it was as if sound had been turned off We probably fell a couple of self arrest hundred feet For whatever reason Scott couldnt even begin to perform his own self arrestThen as I was still desperately attempting to get a purchase in the snow with my ice ax suddenly I stopped A few seconds later just as I expected the rope came tight again with a tremendous jolt But my pick held With my self arrest Id stopped both of usScott are you okay I yelled downHis answer was almost comical My nuts are killing me he screamed The leg loops of his waist harness had had the unfortunate effect when my arrest slammed him to a sudden stop of jamming his testicles halfway up to his stomach If that was the first thing Scott had to complain about I knew that hed escapedserious harmYet our roped together plunge in the avalanche had been a really close call If it hadnt been for the fact that two other mountaineers were in desperate straits theres no way Scott or I would ever have tried to climb in those co.

[KINDLE] ❆ No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the World's 14 Highest Peaks By Ed Viesturs – Sioril.co CHAPTER SelfArrestAt last things seemed to be going our way Inside our Camp III tent atfeet Scott Fischer and I crawled into our sleeping bags and turned off our headlamps The next day we planned to cCHAPTER SelfArrestAt last things seemed to be going our way Inside our Camp III tent atfeet Scott Fischer and I crawled into our sleeping bags and turned off our headlamps The next day we planned to climb up to Camp IV atfeet On the day after we would get up in the middle of the night put on all our clothing grab our gear and a little food and set off for the summit of K atfeet the second highest mountain in the world From Camp IV thevertical feet of snow ice and rock that would stretch between us and the top could take as long as twelve hours to climb since neither Scott nor I was using supplemental oxygen We had agreed that if we hadnt reached the summit by two PM wed turn aroundno matter what It was the evening of AugustFifty four days earlier we had started our hike in to base camp on the Baltoro Glacier which we had reached on June Before the trip even in my most pessimistic scenario I had never imagined that it could take usthan six weeks just to get in position for a summit push But this expedition had seemed jinxed from the startby hideous weather by minor but conseuential accidents by an almost chaotic state of disorganization within our teamAs usual in the midst of a several day summit push at high altitude Scott and I were too keyed up to fall asleep We tossed and turned in our sleeping bags Then suddenly around ten PM the radio in our tent crackled to life I turned on my headlamp grabbed the walkietalkie and listened intently The voice on the radio was that of Thor Kieser another American calling from Camp IV feet above us Hey guys Thor blurted out his voice tense with alarm Chantal and Alex arent back I dont know where they areI sighed in pure frustration In the beam of my headlamp I saw a kindred expression on Scotts face Without exchanging a word we knew what this meant Our summit push was now on indefinite hold Instead of moving up to Camp IV to get into position the next day we would find ourselves caught up in a searchand possibly a rescue The jinx was alive and wellOn Augustas Scott and I had made the long haul from base camp up to Camp III a gruelingfeet of altitude gainThor Kieser Chantal Mauduit and Aleksei Nikiforov had gone for the summit from Camp IV Chantal a very ambitious French alpinist had originally been part of a Swiss team independent from ours When all of her partners had thrown in the towel on the mountain and left for home she had stayed on illegally in terms of the permit system and in effect grafted herself onto our group She was now the only woman on the mountain Alekseior Alex as we called himwas a Ukrainian member of the Russian uintet that made up the core of our teamThat morning Alex and Thor had set out at fivethirty am Chantal not until seven These starting times were much later than Scott and I would have been comfortable with but the threesome had been delayed because of no shortcuts to the top high winds Remarkably climbing without bottled oxygen Chantal caught up with the men and surged past them Struggling in the thin air Thor turned back a few hundred feet below the summit unwilling to get caught out in the dark Chantal summited at five pm becoming only the fourth woman ever to climb K Alex topped out only after dark at seven pmThe proverbial two pm turn around time isnt an ironclad rule on K or on Everest for that matterbut to reach the summit as late as Chantal and Alex did was asking for trouble And trouble had now arrived On the morning of Augustas Scott and I readied ourselves for the search and or rescue mission that would cancel our own summit bid we got another radio call from Thor The two missing climbers had finally showed up at Camp IV at seven in the morning but they were in really bad shape Chantal had been afraid to push her descent in the night and had bivouacked in the open atfeet Three hours later Alex had found her and talked her into continuing the descent with himpossibly saving her lifeStaggering through the night the pair had managed to stay on route no mean feat in the dark given the confusing topography of Ks domeshaped summit But by the time they reached the tents at Camp IV Chantal was suffering from snow blindness a painful condition caused by leaving your goggles off for too long even in cloudy weather Ultraviolet rays burn the cornea temporarily robbing you of your vision Chantal was also utterly exhausted and she thought she had frostbitten feet In only marginally better shape but determined to get down as fast as possible Alex abandoned Chantal to Thors safekeeping and pushed on toward our Camp III He just said Bye bye and took offThor himself was close to exhaustion from his previous days effort but on August he gamely set out to shepherd a playedout Chantal down the mountain Its an almost impossible and incredibly dangerous task to get a person in that kind of shape down slopes and ridges that are no childs play for even the freshest climber Thor had scrounged a ten foot hank of rope from somewherethats all he had to belay Chantal with and maybe to rappelOver the radio to us Thor had pleaded Hey you guys I might need some help to get her down So Scott and I had.

No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the World's 14 Highest

No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the World's 14 Highest Is a well known author some of his books are a fascination for readers like in the No Shortcuts to the Top Climbing the World's 14 Highest Peaks book this is one of the most wanted Ed Viesturs author readers around the world

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